A self-drive loop through rain-soaked temples, forest treks in Dilijan, the blue expanse of Lake Sevan, the red wine canyons of Areni and the cliffside monastery of Tatev, with Mount Ararat watching over it all.
Some countries reveal themselves slowly, through mist, rain and long mountain roads. We landed in Yerevan, said "Barev, Armenia," picked up our RAV4 and headed straight into the hills. Over 8 days we explored a pagan temple in the rain, washed off the road dust in a mountain river, hiked a forest trail from Lake Parz to a medieval monastery, went off-road across open highlands and stopped for a flock of sheep crossing the highway. Mount Ararat was there to greet us when we arrived and to say goodbye when we left.
- Duration
- 8 days (self-drive mountain road trip)
- The ride
- Toyota RAV4
- Signature trek
- Lake Parz → Goshavank Monastery (8.4 km, 3 hrs 33 min, 314 m of climbing)
- Key terrain
- Mountain passes, gorge switchbacks, forest trails, lakeside highways and off-road highland tracks
- Biggest milestone
- Finishing the Parz–Goshavank forest trek together
Route
7 stops
Tap a pin to jump to that stop.
Day by day
The itinerary
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1 Day 1 Yerevan, Garni & Geghard Barev Armenia: Temples in the Rain
We landed in Yerevan, got the keys to the RAV4 and hit the road with the windows down. First stop was Garni Temple, a 2,000-year-old Greco-Roman temple above a green gorge. Rain clouds rolled across the valley, and the rain somehow made it better. Then we drove on to Geghard Monastery, carved into the cliff and wrapped in mist that day. Below Garni, we walked the Symphony of Stones, huge basalt columns hanging over the gorge like organ pipes, and dipped our faces into the cold Azat River for a full reset.
“Grey skies, green valleys, golden memories.”
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2 Day 2 Dilijan, Lake Parz & Goshavank The Switzerland of Armenia, on Foot
We checked into Ecokayan Dilijan Resort Hotel, deep in the green forest, and the next morning we laced up. The 8.4 km trail from Lake Parz to Goshavank Monastery winds through thick forest, past mushrooms and over muddy tracks, and we even stopped to let a small reptile cross first. It took 3.5 hours, it was hard, and she was incredible. At the end we reached open meadows with nothing but quiet mountains and the old stone monastery. The best view comes after the hardest trek.
“Holidays without a trek? No way. Lake Parz to Goshavank, 8.4 km of forest and worth every step.”
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3 Day 3 Lake Sevan & Sevanavank Inhaling the Stillness at 1,900 Metres
We'd passed Lake Sevan on the drive into Dilijan, and on the way out we gave it a proper visit. It's one of the largest high-altitude lakes in the world, and we climbed the stone steps to Sevanavank Monastery for views over the water. We walked a wild green trail along the peninsula and sat on the rocks just breathing it in. We even found a piece of obsidian, the volcanic glass Stone Age people used to make hunting tools, and kept it as the trip's best souvenir.
“Inhaling the stillness at Lake Sevan.”
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4 Day 4 Noratus & Vardenyats Pass Ancient Khachkars & High Mountain Passes
We walked through the field of medieval khachkars (carved cross-stones) at Noratus, then took on the switchbacks of the Vardenyats Pass. The sweeping valley views made it worth every curve.
“A forest of ancient stone crosses at Noratus before conquering Vardenyats Pass.”
Photos from this stop are coming soon. -
5 Day 5 Areni & Vayots Dzor 6,000 Years of Wine & Red Rock Canyons
We drove down into the red-rock canyons of Vayots Dzor, home to the world's oldest known winery. At the Areni restaurant we sat under the vines with two glasses of local red, and this one really hit different.
“This one hits different. Areni red, straight from the source.”
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6 Days 6 to 7 Tatev & Goris Cliffside Sanctuaries & Jungle Days
We drove south to Halidzor and rode the Wings of Tatev, the world's longest non-stop double-track cable car, over the Vorotan Gorge to Tatev Monastery on its cliff. We relaxed in the sun on the old stone walls, then spent another day on overgrown forest trails around Goris and the cave village of Old Khndzoresk, with its swinging bridge.
“Another jungle day. Southern Armenia just keeps getting greener.”
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7 Day 8 Off-road back to Yerevan & goodbye Ararat Until Next Sight
On the last leg north to Yerevan we went off-road across open highland plains with snow-dusted peaks on the horizon and Bollywood songs on the speakers. Then came Armenia's most famous traffic jam: a flock of sheep taking over the whole road (#OncomingTraffic, Armenian style). Back in Yerevan we had a slow lunch at Sorisso, then went to Zvartnots Airport. From the gate, Mount Ararat stood snow-capped on the horizon. It's Armenia's national symbol, even though it stands across the border in Türkiye. It was the perfect goodbye.
“Ցտեսություն, until next sight. Mount Ararat seeing us off.”
Photos from this stop are coming soon.
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